Style Revolution: Hermès' New Jewels Bring Pierre Hardy's Color Theory to Life with Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies, and Sapphires – International Edition

The luxurious brand has consistently embraced color in items such as the Birkin bag and its iconic carres—silk scarves—and their newest haute joaillerie collection delves into this theme using valuable gemstones.

For Hermès, color has always been a distinct form of communication—intertwined with silks, applied to leather, and encircling objects. its most coveted designs However, for the first time in the maison’s history, this expertise with color comes to the forefront in their high jewelry line. The latest Hermès fine jewelry collection titled "Les Formes de la Couleur" boldly delves into an array of lights and shapes through a vivid spectrum. Emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds—green, red, blue, and white—are reinvented as something completely fresh here.

Pierre Hardy, the creative director for Hermès jewellery, states, “This collection brings colors to life through geometric forms.” He adds, “My aim was to establish a robust, self-sufficient, and standalone brand presence.” This concept materializes in an array of bold, architectural designs where geometrical elements and color principles converge with high jewelry expertise.

Hardy, having delved into color theory during his studies, returned to this subject later with renewed insight, employing it as the bedrock for creations that question our perception of jewelry. Within the Portraits de la Couleur section, rubies are arranged into precise squares, whereas sapphires create rich blue circles and beryls transform into vivid yellow triangles. Pondering over these shapes, Hardy asks, “What does it mean when red takes the shape of a square?” He suggests such forms might evoke thoughts of superheroes' symbols, artistic masterpieces, or personal recollections.

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The collection goes beyond mere structure, delving into textures and movements instead. Within the Fresh Paint series, the focus lies on the visual effect of brushstrokes on canvases; this theme incorporates both valuable and semiprecious gemstones arranged in flowing, artistic designs across deep color gradations. For Arc en Couleurs, flexible bracelets and pendants sparkle subtly through their gradual shifts in hue—specifically, one pendant showcases almost 1,400 carefully chosen gems to create an uninterrupted rainbow appearance. Engineered for flexibility around bodily contours, each piece serves not just as jewelry but also as wearable sculptures. “My aim was to investigate every shade possible,” says Hardy. “Instead of limiting variety, my intention was to honor it.”

The collection incorporates scientific principles, particularly through designs that highlight light diffusion. For instance, the Supracolor necklace—a mesmerizing, structural masterpiece—employs rutilated quartz as a prism, unveiling concealed hues under its facade. In contrast, Hermès Diapres juxtaposes emerald-cut diamonds and sapphires with shimmering mother-of-pearl, where the gemstones emit gentle luminescence within detailed frameworks. Additionally, Color Flash adopts a contemporary perspective, featuring pavé-set, pixel-like arrangements of vibrantly hued stones that resemble a static digital display.

This collection marks a shift in the way HermEs approaches haute bijouterie - bold, experimental and entirely unafraid of colour. It's jewellery that doesn't just decorate but sparks conversation. "I wanted to express a lot of ideas at the same time," Hardy says. "It's possible to want different things all at once." If this is what colour at HermEs looks like, the possibilities are endless.

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The article initially appeared on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), which serves as the premier source for news coverage of China and Asia.

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