Is Yorkshire Really Britain’s Ultimate Food Capital? We Went on a Culinary Adventure to Find Out
- Rory Tingle from MailOnline explores the culinary delights of North Yorkshire.
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Boasting medieval walls, a grand cathedral, and winding lanes lined with half-timbered townhouses, York is a must-visit spot for enthusiasts of history.
But while the hordes of excited children wearing horned helmets for the annual Jorvik Viking Festival prove the heritage factor remains a major pull for visitors, that's not the reason I'm here.
Yorkshire is progressively establishing itself as one of Britain's premier culinary destinations, and the The 2025 edition of the AA Restaurant Guide included 73 establishments in North Yorkshire—more than any other county, significantly surpassing Devon, which ranked second with 58 restaurants.
Given this, my partner and I are set to explore York’s gastronomic scene on a culinary journey, beginning with a guided stroll led by the editor of a food blog. York on a Fork , Ben Thorpe.
Following his departure from a 'dull' profession in financial services, Ben now organizes food tours throughout York, guiding visitors to nine of his preferred spots where they can enjoy a taste of something delicious or sip on a drink at each location.
If you want to experience the heartbeat of Yorkshire’s cultural epicenter through its cuisine, this is how you should go about it!
Our initial destination is Ippuku Tea House, an establishment conceived by the married duo Frankie and Tatsu Ozaki.
Hailing from Saltburn In North Yorkshire, Frankie is the younger sibling of two, and both have married Japanese men.
Now she is dedicated to introducing the genuine flavors of Japan to God's Own Country, offering her patrons a tofu rice dish accompanied by pickles and gyoza, all served with a piping hot serving of fresh, verdant Sencha tea.
Up next, Ben treats us to a small serving of 'fish and chip shop chips' at Drakes Fisheries. The dish features a wonderfully rich and impeccably crisp batter paired with addictive fries, demonstrating that frying in beef tallow surpasses the use of vegetable oil typically favored further south.
Following a brief stroll, we arrive at The Shambles, York’s renowned thoroughfare and erstwhile center of its meat industry—highlighted by the butcher's hooks that remain suspended over certain shopfronts.
Considering this legacy, it feels fitting to savor a smoked pork taco at Shambles Kitchen prior to visiting a recently opened patisserie and café established by Florian Poirot, the renowned pastry chef known for his exceptional macarons and chocolates which gained him significant popularity after opening his initial store in neighboring Malton back in 2017.
Ben also introduces us to York’s role in Britain's gin resurgence through York Gin—a brand known for crafting a range of accolade-winning spirits influenced by regional personalities—before leading us to visit four additional spots, one standout being Ambiente Tapas, an inviting Spanish-themed eatery and sherry bar renowned for its enthusiastic and amiable team.
A recurring highlight of his tours is Love Cheese, an intimate and eccentric cheese store and bar known as 'the world's premier Speakcheesey'.
On another occasion, we return for the delightful 'Afternoon Cheese,' an engaging twist on the classic British tradition. This indulgent spread includes five artisanal cheeses served on a multi-level platter overflowing with cured meats, olives, pickles, chutney, crackers, and fresh bread sourced directly from the nearby town of Haxby.
Every cheese is carefully selected by the highly informed shop owner, Jordan, who engages in friendly banter with customers as he offers personalized recommendations to meet their individual cheese requirements.
In addition to cheese, York also gained fame for its chocolate, thanks to the confectionery company Terry's, which was established in the city back in 1767 until foreign ownership led to production being moved to France in 2005.
The Grade-II listed, formerly used manufacturing facility of the company, which offers views of York Racecourse, stood vacant for several years prior to its redevelopment into high-end residential units.
Luckily for those who love good food, it has also become home to The Old Liquor Store , an Italian-influenced restaurant, bar and wine shop run by seasoned restaurateur Ben Williams.
The head chef, Matt Leivers, was lured away from the Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome, which makes it a must-visit destination for any culinary enthusiast exploring York.
Stopping by for supper, we relish a remarkable selection of beautifully plated meals that offer bold tastes with none of the pretension or skimpy servings.
I've chosen the pan-seared seabass fillet served with rice noodles and Asian greens as my main dish.
However, what truly stands out is my dessert—a caramelized white chocolate panna cotta crowned with cookie crumbs and brittle slices of zesty Granny Smith apples.
For demonstrating reinvention, The Old Liquor Store seamlessly integrates with a city where numerous structures exhibit evidence of having been adapted and reused throughout their extensive histories.
This is particularly evident in the Museum Gardens, where the remains of a Benedictine abbey and an ancient hospital share ground with a Roman tower, a local church, and the neoclassical Yorkshire Museum.
Beneath the menacing gargoyles and towering Gothic arches of York Minster, exploring the Undercroft exposes remnants of a Roman fortification along with an Anglo-Saxon burial ground, all situated near the Norman foundational structures of the present-day cathedral.
While you’re munching your way around the city, be sure to also make time for lesser-known gems like All Saints’ Church on North Street, where a fifteenth-century window illustrates the last days before the end of the world and elaborately coiffured angels stare down from the hammer-beam roof.
The small-scale layout from York’s medieval period makes the city quite easy to navigate on foot, especially when utilizing the shortcuts offered through its intricate network of concealed lanes called Snickelways.
And if you ever feel exhausted from all that walking, rest assured there will always be a place close by where you can grab something to eat!
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